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Val di Mello

Hiking through the Val di Mello trail you can see the granite large walls. Once upon a time these enormous walls represented a real barrier for the “Melàt”, the seasonal inhabitants of the valley, who climbed up to 2000 meters with their flocks during the summer.

Today, however, these walls are no longer an obstacle, but have became a wonderful field of action for climbers: a set of rocky structures and smooth slabs called with the most imaginative names, mystical and a bit desecrating, by the protagonists of the first ascents.

In fact these routes were the theater of a revolutionary climbing in the 80’s, fueled by the rejection of the classic ideals of mountaineering and which led to the discovery and ascent of these “minor” rock located at low altitudes.

Climbing routes

Sponde del Ferro: Mixomiceto, via Gossemberg

Il Pappagallo: Sette aprile

Precipizio degli asteroidi: Oceano Irrazionale, Bodenshaff, Amplesso complesso

Qualido: Il paradiso può attendere

Tempio dell’eden: L’alba del Nirvana

Sperone degli gnomi: Tunnel diagonale

Sarcofago: Cunicolo acuto

Dimore degli Dei: Il Risveglio di Kundalini

Scoglio delle Metamorfosi: Oracoli di Ulisse, Polimagò, Luna Nascente

Alkekekengi: Via dell’Assiolo

Sperone della magia: La sfera di cristallo

Placche dell’Oasi: Uomini e topi

Alcune vie mito

dell’arrampicata in aderenza

Precipizio degli asteroidi: Brutamato ye ye, Nada por Nada, Divieto di sosta

Trapezio d’argento: Stomaco peloso, Nuova Dimensione

Dimore degli Dei: Patabang

Stella Marina: La vedova nera, Flauto magico

Muro delle Vacche: Okosa

Alkekengi: Micetta bagnata, Mani di fata, L’infinito

Placche dell’Oasi: Cristalli di polvere

On these smooth rocks the most frequent type of climbing is “friction climbing”, where balance and the ability to load well your climbing shoes on crystals and small rock mushrooms are the key to being able to climb. Val di Mello is not a climbing gym. In this half century of history, generations of climbers have managed to preserve the place, both from an environmental and an ethical point of view.

Some of the Val di Mello climbing routes are the most famous and beautiful in the Alps, but their fame should not be misleading, because they require adequate technical and mental preparation to be faced. These are not itineraries already bolted and suitable to everyone, but perhaps this is what has made Val di Mello a legendary place in the history of modern climbing.