Punta Milano

Punta Milano is a characteristic tower that rises north of Rifugio Omio.

It offers some short but interesting climbs.

  • HUT

    Rifugio Omio (2100 m) in Val dell’Oro, can be reached in 2 h from Bagni Masino

  • DIFFICULTY

    the climbs described vary in difficulty from III to IV+

  • GEAR

    rope (50 m), 10 quickdraws, nuts and friends, helmet

  • DESCENT

    Abseil down the normal route, all belay stations are equipped with in-situ gear.

Cresta Sud – South Ridge

Normal route (120 m height).

From the path ascend to the col at the base of the south ridge.

Climb the chimney and cross narrow ledges towards Val Codera to reach a second col at the base of the arête proper.

Ascend the arête by climbing a small overhang (IV-) to reach the belay (equipped abseil station).

Climb more easy stepped terrain (II/III) to just below the summit.

From the characteristic window move right into a corner, breach the slab and reach the summit.

Via Ho-Chi-Minh 

Up the East Face (140 m height).

This is an excellent outing for early season training.

Start by ascending from left to right the obvious grassy ledge that cuts across the base of the face. Alternatively, scramble up some stepped terrain and then climb the corner-crack from the base of the face to reach the ledge.

Belay below the large overhang, then climb diagonally left up the slab situated below the overhang and belay at the base of a chimney.

Climb the chimney and after some easy scrambling belay at the base of the final slab.

As for the previous route, ascend the slab and reach the summit.

Camino N.E. – N.E. Chemney

From the base of the Ho-Chi-Minh climb continue right to reach the gully that leads to a col. The wall is split by an obvious chimney; ascend this (70 m, III/IV)

Cross the window and reach the belay of the previous route. From here ascend the slabs to reach the summit.

Photogallery